I am happily home, and nostalgic, and refreshed, and overwhelmed, and changed, and peaceful from the travels I've had the deep and affecting pleasure of enjoying these past few weeks. I've missed the sangha (spiritual community-you!) of home, but am returning filled up with the borrowed stuff of other sweet sanghas.
First. I love Thailand. We should all go together on a giant yoga pilgrimage. Can we?
Arriving in Bangkok was sweet. The trip was long, but I was excited to be there, so any traces of tired disappeared immediately. I had slightly prepared myself not to like Bangkok for its bigness, its busy-ness, its chaos, and its stinkiness, cause i'm not a huge fan of any of those, but none were present. Except for the bigness, and the busy-ness. Oh and a bit of the chaos.

And it was a bit stinky, but its powerful and sacred shakti far outweighed any of this. I was struck quickly by the openness of people instead. I was struck by the sacred spaces, some sort of hidden, and some sort of towering, right in the middle of the thick of things. A temple ground, right off the main drag, close to where I was staying. Monks. Roosters. Best. Thai. Food. Ever. And then sky scrapers. And then nuns. And then traffic. And thai insence wafting through the streets, calling us to prayer. The paradoxes were unbelievable, but also essential. They were what made these people able to move through the chaos with such grace, I bet.
One morning, as all the rush hour traffic drove relentlessly past, a woman on her way to work stopped in the middle of the sidewalk, faced one of the nearby temples, put her hands gracefully together, and then knelt down, placing her forehead to the cement, bowing down humbly to her god. And then got back up, filled up, and carried on to work in her business woman suit.
Regardless of all of the strangeness and the paradoxes (or maybe because of them) I felt instantly at home in Bangkok. At home, safe, taken care of, at ease. As I think i've said, I've had more difficult trips to the grocery store than I did into Bangkok and thankfully, the ease would follow me through the rest of the trip.
My first day there, I went for a walk in the morning and stumbled upon some delicious, rich thai coffee. There was a quote on the wall of a coffee shop later in the trip that described the thai and laos coffee perfectly. I don't remember which guy said the quote, but I'm pretty sure he was drinking this stuff when he said it:

"Black as the devil, hot as hell, pure as an angel, sweet as love."
So the coffee became one of my passions (obsessions) while I was there, and the other one was the fruit shakes, which are simply fruit blended with ice. For the most part, we were finding them for about twenty baht (or less than a dollar) which was good, because on many days, I had about five of them. It was mango season, and the insides of the mangoes were the very same saffron as the monks' robes.
Very near to where I was staying was a pretty spectacular temple ground. It opened up onto Rambuttri (our street) and another big main drag. But inside, was a quiet market, a tiny restaurant called Mama's

(my friend Darren's favourite Thai food) make-shift-fully set up, and a beautiful temple ground complete with some kind of gigantic, holy tree, where between the two of us, we made daily offerings. It was a bit of a ritual, if rituals can be made that quickly. I love that tree. (It was my first love, before the coffee or the mango shakes, and it was at first sight.)

Imagine how many prayers this tree has heard?
So, having met Bangkok, and found out about thai coffee, and visited an insane weekend market that was too big in which to even get orientation, we moved on to Laos via overnight train. The train was air conditioned and there were sleepers in our class (which was decidedly second and felt an awful lot like first. This is called flash-packing, i've learned. Back-packing is when you choose the wooden benches on the trains to sleep on. Flash-packing usually involves getting to similar destinations, but a lot more high maintenance and fancy. This would not be the end of my flash-packing. Many rooms with air conditioning were to be had.
So we crossed the Laos-Thai border, via the Friendship bridge. Getting Laos visas took about three seconds and then they were all, 'welcome to Laos.' The US could learn some lessons from these guys. I'm not going to go into the details of getting back into the states after this trip, but i will say that it was not so friendly, and certainly not so quick.
So I arrived in Vientiane, the capital of Laos via tuk tuk with Lao locals, where we learned the salutatatory words we would need on our way from an old Lao lady with a very kind and patient spirit. Lao is cute.
I was charmed by the Lao people instantly. They were quieter and kind of almost shy compared to the Thais, but still filled with a simliar quiet grace that was never missing from any of the people on this trip. Vientiane itself sits on the side of the Mekong River and on the other side of the river is Thailand, which you can still see. Vientiane (like the other places I visited in Laos) was colonised by the French in the 1900's and they left a European imprint on much of the architecture and food. Look at the photo of the door to the guesthouse below. Pretty, hey?